WEINGUT TESCH LANGENLONSHEIM | NAHE
Andere über uns
Jahrgang 2023 | 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2018 | 2017
TESCH | Nahe – Vintage 2023 – Claude Kolm | The fine wine review
Martin Tesch pulled his estate out of the prestigious VDP organization because he felt it didn’t work for his marketing plan. But there is no doubt that his wines remain on the high level that one expects from VDP members.The vintage here, as elsewhere in Germany, was marked by the extremely rapid ripening at harvest, meaning some decisions had to be made to prioritize what could come out best. The best producers generally are able to produce good wines in spite of adverse conditions, and that certainly is what happened here (although not for all of Germany).
The resulting wines have moderate acidity, but because of good malic acidity nonetheless have good bite to them.
Tesch makes the single vineyard wines with the expectation that they will begin to be drunk in five years. As a result, especially in this vintage, those wines can be a little disjointed when initially opened; if you are planning on serving them now, I suggest opening the bottles early and even decanting them beforehand to allow for aeration.
These are very good wines, indeed, unexpectedly good given the conditions of the vintage.
Vintage report 2023 – TESCH
by Anne Krebiehl MW | www.vinous.comTesch has been making wine for 300 years in Langenlonsheim. Martin Tesch, the incumbent, is the tenth generation of his family, but chose a career in science as a biochemist before returning home upon his father’s retirement. His first vintage back at home was in 1997. Tesch focused mainly on Riesling and an uncompromising, dry style, which back then was still a little ahead of its time – some even called it “austere.” It was made from the old Riesling vines planted between the 1940s and 1970s. Inspired by the popular MTV concerts, he called his dry estate Riesling “Unplugged”, which is still the estate’s calling card, while vinifying single-site wines separately.
By now, his son Johannes is working alongside him while studying enology at Geisenheim. Johannes Tesch trained with Flick in the Rheingau, Dr Loosen in the Mosel and Egon Müller in the Saar and is looking to gain more Riesling experience abroad. Father and son work together to establish new vineyards with higher canopies on east-facing sites to shade not only the fruit but the soil and thus create a cooler mesoclimate across the sites. Riesling vineyards with lower canopies on fully south-facing slopes can deal with both heat and drought; their thinking is long-term. They currently farm 24 hectares, not all of which have come on stream yet, but they are not looking to grow – they want to return to a 20-hectare size once their new plantings are fully established. “How far we get with the older vineyards, we shall see,” Tesch says philosophically.
Ninety percent of their plantings are Riesling, 7% Weissburgunder, and the rest is Pinot Noir – the latter is made into a still Blanc de Noirs called Deep Blue, and into Rosé, only tiny amounts of red wines are made. Export markets are still more important to Tesch than the domestic German market. About his single-site wines, Tesch says: “We are presently knocking at the door of fine wine.” I reckon they have already walked through that door – especially with the single-site Rieslings from Karthäuser and St. Remigiusberg. While the Unplugged Riesling is still made from the old vines across the estate, the new plantings of between 5 and 15 years are made into the T-Series, a new fruit-driven entry level of Riesling, Weissburgunder and Rosé. Tesch recalls 2023 was “a late spring, a wet May, then six weeks of heat, but the vines still lagged in their development until early August. They did not race ahead like they did in 2022. In September, both warmth and wetness arrived, and things sped up.” Tesch compares 2023 to the 2006 vintage, also threatened by rain: “In 2006, I learned that if an elephant attacks you, you run, you do not start a fight. This is why, in 2023, I said now we run all together. Without the experience of 2006, we would not have managed so well in 2023,” Tesch says.
His son Johannes noted that the harvest was done within 18 short days, with him spending his time on the back of the trailer, sorting through all the picked fruit again, even after the selective hand harvest. Picking started on 17 September in daytime temperatures of 28°C, and even the nights only cooled to 18°C. Hand harvest and sorting were decisive in 2023. The extra sorting effort helped–but it also meant that in the 2.5 hectares of their Krone site, for instance, they got merely 5,000 liters of wine. This is why the wines are taut, clear, bright and super-clean.
2023 ST. REMIGIUSBERG, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“How could the beauty of a ripe apricot be married to a lightning strike? That’s what this extraordinary dry riesling does. Generosity and purity are redefined as this flies over your palate with a staggering energy. The flash may be too bright for you, but that doesn’t alter the fact that it is a brilliant illumination that lights up the sky.” 97 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com“The St. Remigiusberg is the the wine with the greatest density and fullness, although it does not in any way lose its balance. For the moment, the wine features edgy citric fruits, but it has a very good development ahead of it. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol.” 93+ | C- Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“The 2023 Riesling St. Remigiusberg is grown on weathered volcanic soil of porphyry. It is Tesch’s smallest site, with vines grown on a steep slope and a flat plateau. Both citrus foliage and zest give immediate lift and life to the nose. The palate is pervasive, energetic, racy and exciting. There is much richness and fluidity at the core and a fill of ripe, juicy Mirabelle, but it remains absolutely zesty with ripe citrus. This is beautifully complete and serene. (Bone-dry)” 94 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com
“Full screwcapped bottle just 1,167 g. Next to Karthäuser on weathered volcanic rock and iron-rich clay which give very low yields. Orange capsule. Densely packed flavours on the nose. Very fresh and open. At the moment, it tastes a little simple but Martin Tesch assures us it often develops mandarin flavours with age (hence the orange capsule, presumably). The most astringent of these Tesch 2023 Rieslings at this stage. Yet to express itself fully.” 16.5/20 | J. Robinson | www.jancisrobinson.com
2023 KRONE, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“The yellow of morning sunshine shines from a clear sky straight into your face, making you feel glad to be alive. So pure and clean on the medium-bodied palate, then you sink into this light in the form of wet stone minerality.” 94 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com“The Krone is not quite as ripe and shows a bit better balance and rounder acidity than the preceding wines. There’s some chalk here in the nose and mouth to go with lemon-based fruit. This might be a wine to drink a bit younger than the other single vineyard wines. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 24.” 92/A | C. Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“The 2023 Riesling Krone is from old vines grown on a steep, southeast-facing slope of loam and weathered sandstone. The nose shows enticing glimpses of ripe, juicy nectarine and Navel orange. There is generosity and juiciness, but vivid citrus defines the wine in the end with its beautiful zestiness. This is exquisite, bright and really long. The rigorous sorting necessary in 2023 meant that this 2.5-hectare site could yield only 5,000 liters of wine. It was worth it. (Bone-dry)” 94 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com
“Full screwcapped bottle just 1,162 g. Next to Löhrer Berg on decalcified loess and weathered sandstone. Exposed to western winds. Yellow capsule. Fruit salad on the nose. Lots happening on the palate. Really rather opulent and peachy but it finishes dry and savoury. A wine that would be fine with many dishes. Persistent.“ 17/20 | J. Robinson | www.jancisrobinson.com
2023 KÖNIGSSCHILD, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“The 2023 Riesling Königsschild is a fully south-facing site of light, calcareous loess. Crushed citrus foliage and pale lemon skin set the tone on the nose. The palate follows suit with fine, lemon-scented freshness, super-light and vividly bright. This is the slenderest Riesling of the portfolio, citrus-focused and lip-smacking. (Bone-dry)” 92 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com“Powerful lime aroma, and an energy that makes this leap joyfully across your palate. Then, as the air starts to work on this, a whole fruit salad of aromas on the medium-bodied palate. Then the lime freshness gently builds again to a serious statement in the finish.” 95 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
“The Königsschild shows finesse with grapefruit aromas and flavors, a medium-weight body, and overall roundness, but it also has a structure typical of limestone soils. Screw cap closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 24.” 92+/A | C. Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“Full screwcapped bottle just 1,161 g. 40-year-old vines on fertile loamy gravel soils. Lime-green capsule. Fragrant, floral nose leaps out of the glass. There is real energy in this delightfully well-balanced wine that’s already approachable with a mineral undertow.” 16.5+/20 | J. Robinson | www.jancisrobinson.com
2023 LÖHRER BERG, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“The 2023 Riesling Löhrer Berg was grown on heavy loam soils with great water availability. It opens with beautifully ripe stone fruit, shining with peach and nectarine, promising juicy generosity. The palate, however, delivers strait-laced brightness on a slender but juicy frame. Lemon zestiness on the finish makes the mouth water. This wine exemplifies site in its aromatic, ripe fruit profile, while the house style is embodied on the taut palate. (Bone-dry)” 91 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com“At once deep and delicate, friendly and fascinating, this is a wonderfully cool and gentle dry riesling with ample power. Then the lime and green apple freshness bowls you over in the white light finish. ” 94 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
“Lime blossom nose. Medium-light body, pure lime fruit, elegant, strong malic acidity. Screw cap closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 24.” 93/A1 | C. Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“Full screwcapped bottle just 1,161 g. 40-year-old vines on fertile loamy gravel soils. Lime-green capsule. Fragrant, floral nose leaps out of the glass. There is real energy in this delightfully well-balanced wine that’s already approachable with a mineral undertow. ” 16.5+/20 | J. Robinson | www.jancisrobinson.com
2023 KARTHÄUSER, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“What a radical riesling and what radical freshness. The soul of the samurai sword and the brilliant shine of its blade. Very sleek and focused on the medium-bodied palate, but this is the simplistic side of the wine’s description. Extremely long finish that ends in an excitingly sharp point.” 97 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.comTropical notes in this wine with a rich texture but light on the palate. This wine is very open already but still should improve. Screw cap closure. 13.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 24. 92+/A | C. Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“Full screwcapped bottle just 1,162g. From a south-west-facing amphitheatre of weathered sandstone. Maroon capsule. Brooding nose that’s still developing. Restrained aromatically but with a great weight and extract on the palate. Still a little chewy but all the ingredients are there for a very interesting future. Exciting peacock’s tail of flavours on the finish. Very definitely a food wine.“ 17+/20 | J. Robinson | www.jancisrobinson.com
2023 UNPLUGGED, TESCH Riesling trocken, Nahe
“Electrifying freshness and lightning bright Amalfi-lemon aroma, plus wet-stone minerality that makes this lift off on your palate. So focused on the medium-bodied palate. Such an exciting energy at the dangerously refreshing finish.” 93 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com“The “Unplugged” is made from older vines than the preceding wine, and it is less immediately open, and although there is good grip here, this wine comes off as less aggressive in its bite. There’s a noble austerity here and some chalkiness. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 24.” 90/B+ | C. Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“The 2023 Riesling Unplugged is the estate Riesling, made from old vines planted between the 1940s and 1970s across the single sites. The nose has the slightest frisson of passion fruit while the palate absolutely honors its name, with straight lines, uncompromising dryness and a matter-of-fact Rieslingness. There’s gorgeous citrus and not a frill in sight. Strait-laced, pure and lasting. (Bone-dry)” 91 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com
“En blockbuster fra Tesch. Flasket men en lille smule kuldioxid, hvilket giver den et behageligt ekstra pust. Saftige grønne æbler, stikkelsbær og limoncello. Sprød og læskende. Både seriøs og let at elske.” Score 93/100 points | R. Christensen | WineWherever
“Tesch Riesling ligner vitterligt noget fra 1930’erne, når du kigger på flasken – det er lidt spøjst, for vinen hører faktisk til hos de moderne tyske vinmagere, og netop Tesch ligger i toppen. Masser af citrus, lime og en underliggende duft af modne ferskner, pærer og grape. I munden har den friskhed og en mineralitet og syre, som gør den glimrende til fisk og skaldyr.” Score 93/100 points | Mad & Monopolet
“To rieslinger denne uge – ikke én for meget! Tesch har lige lanceret deres spritfriske 23’er. Unplugged har jeg rost før i tidligere årgange og 23’eren følger stærkt op. Det er faktisk rystende så god kvalitet, der er for pengene. Mostpræget, åben og ikke engang reduktiv på trods af den unge alder og skruelåg. Brager frem citronsaft og frisk saft fra filippa-æbler. Prikker på tungen af syre og en lille smule kulsyre. Smagen er limesaftig, vildt spændstig og ren med en mere moden tone af pære. Nahe er og bliver Paradis for riesling i mellemstilen; ikke så sitrende som Mosel, ikke så fyldig som Rheinhessen eller Pfalz, men bare præcis som Nahe. Kassekøb! Score 92/100 points | R. Langdahl | Mine yndlingsvine: “Kioskbaskeren”
2023 RIESLING “T”, TESCH Riesling trocken
“The 2023 Riesling is made from 5-to-15-year-old vines and was first produced in 2019—note that in some export markets, this wine is called Queen of Whites. Fresh, juicy pear, lemon and crunchy apple promise fruit and freshness in equal measure. The palate is vividly light, translucent, fresh and bone-dry. This is energetic, utterly refreshing and incredibly animating. (Bone-dry)” 89 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com“A forthrightly citrusy and generous dry riesling. However, it is more lemon curd and dried lemon peel than fresh, zesty fruit. Excellent substance that exactly balances the moderately firm acidity and delicate dried-herb character.” 91 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
“This wine is from younger vines. It is medium-full bodied with a good acidic feel (the vintage is relatively low in total acidity but also low in pH). There’s pleasing lemon-lime fruit here, making for a good wine for aperitifs and simple food such as roast chicken. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 24.” 87/B- | C. Kolm | TheFineWineReview
“Full screwcapped bottle just 1,159 g. From newer vineyards designed for climate resistance. Slight spritz. Light nose, no suggestion of spontaneous fermentation. Still quite tart. I’d want to let this round out a bit before broaching.“ 15.5/20 | J. Robinson | www.jancisrobinson.com
2023 WEISSBURGUNDER “T”, TESCH trocken
“The 2023 Weissburgunder has a lovely scent of green pear peel, a touch of cucumber skin and powdery fern. The palate is light and bright with a smattering of pepper. The finish tapers into even more slenderness with exquisitely clean lemon freshness. Totally mouthwatering. (Bone-dry)” 89 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com“This very crisp, medium-bodied dry pinot blanc has a stack of crisp pear, fresh mint and parsley aromas. Super-straight and cool with a very clean finish. With this youthful energy it should develop very well.” 91 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
2023 SPÄTBURGUNDER ROSÉ “T”, TESCH trocken
“Shimmering salmon pink in color, the 2023 Rosé is a pure Pinot Noir, directly pressed after three to four hours of maceration. Gentle stewed strawberry on the nose spreads its fruity allure. The palate has a supple creaminess and more of that lovely strawberry vibe. Despite blocked malolactic fermentation, this is far too easy to drink and beautifully mellow. (Bone-dry)” 89 | A. Krebiehl | www.vinous.com“Generous strawberry and raspberry jelly character. Juicy and substantial on the medium-bodied palate, the textural complexity building at the long, structured finish. ” 91 | S. Pigott | www.jamessuckling.com
Jahrgang 2023 | 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | 2018 | 2017
